Secret lakes and a lookout peak

Take one of the highest passes in the Pyrénées, climb to the commanding summit of Tarbésou and enter a mountain sanctuary, a hidden landscape of woods and water.

You see above the view from the Pic de Tarbésou at 2,364m. Suddenly, as you near the top, a series of crystal lakes come into view. Of the two in sight, you can tell which is which from the colour: Étang Noir is in front and Étang Bleu behind. To the right of the shot is the track we took along the ridge above them. We dropped down after the first pyramid in the distance. The return is via the lakes, so it's a loop.

But first, how to get here.

We came via an ancient pass over the Pyrénées, the Col de Pailhères, one of only five roads over the range that rise above 2,000m. It's famous among cyclists as a climb in the Tour de France, but in former times it was a vital route between mountain settlements to north and south. Mule tracks, old roads and secret ways converged at a reliable crossing point.

It would have been busy with goods for market, priests, tinkers, officials and outlaws. But I thought, too, of the Parfaits, the leaders of the persecuted Cathars in the Middle Ages, coming this way, perhaps, to look for a place to hide. Maybe, also, terrified refugees fleeing the Nazis during the Second World War: Jews, dissidents, escaped prisoners of war. The Pyrénées were criss-crossed by paths leading to hoped-for freedom in Spain.

We parked at the Col and followed a well-trodden route to Tarbésou. Soon we heard the soft bells worn by the Comtois ponies who graze freely on the mountainside. They're valued here as beautiful animals, which they are, but also as a delicacy. 'Nuff said.

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Listen for the bells

It's an easy walk, no scrambling needed, just some deft footwork in places and a steadying hand. It was lunchtime when we reached the far end of the loop, so we stopped on a high rock offering an impressive view towards Andorra.

Dropping down into the sanctuary, the first lake is Étang de Pee: tiny, quiet and glassy. Climbing a little, wandering past pine woods, took us to its bigger neighbours, blue then black.

On a holiday you'll see people swimming here. It's a lovely spot for it. The whole walk takes about five hours, depending on the pace you prefer, so there should be plenty of time for a dip. From here there is a stiff climb back up to the plateau of the pass.

Below you can see Nils on the return, marching through bushes that were heavy with myrtilles, or bilberries. Tarbésou is at centre top and the white line of that final climb is to the right. Then there's the view behind and, from the higher ground (once we reached it), the vista of the route we'd covered.

Low to the left you can see the bottom lake, called Rabassoles Bas. It was a straightforward amble from this viewpoint back to the Col, though it took a little while.

Thanks to Nils for guiding me on a wonderful walk. He has Tarbésou on his shoulder. Looking forward to the next one!

After a stiff hike like this, you'd deserve a liquid refreshment...